Subject: Wiring Color Codes From: "David Scribner" <
david@blackiris.com <mailto:david@blackiris.com>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 07:18:30 -0600 Since Richard Schneider mentioned in his post the importance of following the correct Color Codes when doing wiring I have posted to the Resources page on the list's web site: <http://diyapason.pipechat.org> , copies of the Color Codes for 50 pair (100 wire) cables. There are two versions, an Adobe PDF document, which requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and a MS Excel spreadsheet. Most people do not use cables larger than these 50 pair ones however, cables do exist in 100 pair and even 200 pair versions. Unfortunately, I don't have the definitive code for the various bundles in these larger cables so those are not covered in the files. If anyone has the exact order for the bundles in larger cables, please let me know and I will update these charts. Having dealt with wiring that has not been done to the color codes, I know that it can be a real mess trying to figure out what is what. To save yourself and others a lot of aggravation ALWAYS use the correct color codes when doing your wiring. It may take a little bit longer at the beginning, especially if you don't have the codes memorized, but those few minutes will save lots of time if at some point you need to figure out a problem and end up having to "ring out" each and every wire to find it. David----------------------------------------------------------
Ah! This I know about. I spent my former life as being in charge of telecommunications for the state university system. A telephone cable is 50 wires grouped into 25 pairs. There are two sets = of colors, the first set are (in order): BLUE, ORANGE, GREEN, BROWN, and SLATE (GRAY) the second set are: WHITE, RED, BLACK, YELLOW, and VIOLET Now each pair is identified by picking one from each set. The first pair = has one wire WHITE with a BLUE stripe and the other BLUE with a WHITE stripe. The = numbering goes, starting with WHITE, pair it with each of the first set colors, then = go to RED, etc.... 1 WHITE-BLUE 2 WHITE-ORANGE 3 WHITE-GREEN 4 WHITE-BROWN 5 WHITE-SLATE 6 RED-BLUE 7 RED-ORANGE 8 RED-GREEN .. .. .. Once you get in the swing of it, it goes quite easily. I wired 25pair = cable all over my last house and I think I had exactly one pair reversed in the whole = mess.
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Subject: re: wiring color codes From: "Tim Bovard" <tmbovard@arkansas.net <mailto:tmbovard@arkansas.net>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 07:42:36 -0600 Hello, List! In addition to David's fine info, it should be noted that the Chart as shown is also applicable for cable sizes *smaller* than 50-pair. Our firm commonly uses cable in 2, 3, 12, 25, and 50 pr sizes -- in each case just follow the code chart from #1 until you run out of wires! Thanks, David, for providing the Charts! Tim <tmbovard@arkansas.net <mailto:tmbovard@arkansas.net>>
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Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Wiring Color Codes From: "Mac Hayes" <mach37@ptw.com <mailto:mach37@ptw.com>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 05:46:24 -0800 David Scribner wrote: > Since Richard Schneider mentioned in his post the importance of > following the correct Color Codes when doing wiring I have posted to > the Resources page on the list's web site: > <http://diyapason.pipechat.org> , copies of the Color Codes for 50 pair > (100 wire) cables.... Thanks for that, David. I have two 6-rank manual chests and 4 or 5 offset = chests, none of which follow any standard - although some of them use telco cables. I will = probably rewire them rather than try to deal with the hodge-podge. Mac Hayes
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Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] re: wiring color codes From: "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com <mailto:rlc1@etnainstruments.com>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:15:09 -0500 Another variety of "telephone" cable is a 64-conductor (32-pair) size that = is available from Organ Supply. This consists of two 16-pair bundles, the = first a "white" bundle and the second an "orange" bundle; within each bundle the wires are "numbered" 1-32. The bundles are identified by pairs = of colored plastic tracer strips that also follow the standard color code. For a very large cable, those bundles are themselves bundled, again = using the same colored tracer strips. You can go on "forever" with this scheme. In a way, it is too bad they didn't use the resistor color code, but the telephone industry seems to have a history all of its own! Larry Chace
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Subject: Connectors for telephone cable From: "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com <mailto:rlc1@etnainstruments.com>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:18:59 -0500 (I changed the subject field to match the slight change in subject!) Many companies sell connector that are designed for use with 50-wire (25-pair) telephone cable. Many of these let you "punch down" the wire onto the connector, which therefore has "insulation displacement connection" points that both strip the insulation and grip the copper conductors. For telephonic use, the 50-position connectors are a good match, but for organic use, it is often convenient to use 64-position (32-pair) cable. Does anyone know of a source for similar connectors of this size? They would be useful for 61-note chests. Larry Chace
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Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Frank Vanaman" <fvanaman@speakeasy.org <mailto:fvanaman@speakeasy.org>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:23:35 -0500 Hi List and Larry- Larry Chace wrote: > > For telephonic use, the 50-position connectors are a good match, but for > organic use, it is often convenient to use 64-position (32-pair) > cable. Does anyone know of a source for similar connectors of this > size? They would be useful for 61-note chests. > When Sam LaRosa built up my 'third hand' Peterson relay (a small part of a very large relay which he bought from Bob Maes, who got it from that 5 manual hotel organ in Albequerque...my how this stuff wanders around), he used 64 position connectors for the manual inputs. They're similar in shape to the commonly known 50 position 'amp' or 'amphenol' connector so prevalent in the telephone world, so they are available. I don't however, know where he got them. I don't recall seeing the 64 position connectors in Newark or Digi-key, FWIW. The next time I speak with Sam, I'll ask where he got them.... Frank Vanaman Baltimore
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Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Tom Dimock" <tad1@cornell.edu <mailto:tad1@cornell.edu>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:36:16 -0500 At 09:18 AM 01/19/2000 -0500, you wrote: >For telephonic use, the 50-position connectors are a good match, but for >organic use, it is often convenient to use 64-position (32-pair) >cable. Does anyone know of a source for similar connectors of this >size? They would be useful for 61-note chests. Well, they seem to go directly from 50 position to 100 position. Here's a source for 100 position blocks at $20.99 each. <http://www.atexelectronics.com/Networking/patchpanels.htm> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------= - Tom Dimock ---- Cornell University ---- tad1@cornell.edu <mailto:tad1@cornell.edu> "There go my people. I must follow them, for I am their leader." M. = Gandhi-------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Tom Dimock" <
tad1@cornell.edu <mailto:tad1@cornell.edu>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:51:06 -0500 Here's another source. http://www.derossi.com/hometech/techwire/head.html#40066M25 <http://www.derossi.com/hometech/techwire/head.html> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------= - Tom Dimock ---- Cornell University ---- tad1@cornell.edu <mailto:tad1@cornell.edu> "There go my people. I must follow them, for I am their leader." M. = Gandhi
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Subject: Connectors for telephone cable From: "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com <mailto:rlc1@etnainstruments.com>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 11:50:19 -0500 My friend Tom Dimock pointed out that my previous query about "connectors" = was less than perfectly clear. His posting about "punch down blocks" was completely consistent with my query, as written, but what I wrote was not what I wanted to ask! I wanted to ask about male/female connectors for quick and easy joining of = 64-wire (32-pair) cables. The similar 50-position connectors are similar to the "Centronics" type of connectors used on some personal computer = printers. There are versions to which you solder each wire and there are others with = little insulation displacement attachment points. The reason for this, in part, is that my present plans call for chests = with 56 notes, from tenor F to top c of a 4', and so 50-wire cables are less than a perfect match. Thanks again, Larry--------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Randy Newman" <
rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu <mailto:rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 12:16:42 -0500 (EST) i'm interested in the 32 pair connectors also. i'm currently wiring up 64 wire cables to go from the console to relay and it would be great to have the ends connectorized. also, if anyone knows if there is a 64 wire punch down block that has one of these connectors prewired that would be great too. i've seen these type of 50 wire punch blocks. randy------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "H. J. Zivnak" <
bztruck@email.msn.com <mailto:bztruck@email.msn.com>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 12:38:20 -0800 Hello Larry and List, 64 pin Centronics type connectors are indeed available from Chinch as = their "97 Series". These are a plastic shell idc version of the "57 Series" = Telco connector. Newark carries them. Before you go to the expense of buying 32 pair wire and trouble of wiring the connectors, consider that you could buy a pre made 15' cable with 50 = pin connectors on each end for $10 to $15 (I paid $10.80 in quantity 20). The unit manual chests on my Wurlitzer are diatonic and have two bottom boards for each rank. I cut a cable as necessary for each bottom board and wrote the extra wire off as "spares" in case of a problem in the future. = The other end of the cable was hooked to the punch down blocks at the relay. Now I have a male connector on each bottom board and an associated female connector on the relay. Add one more cable of the appropriate length = between these two and the job is done for a total of $32.40 per rank (if you have 15' from chest to relay, longer cables are available). If I change the installation in the future, I change only the connector cables ( and = winding and....... :<) ) Hope this helps, Joe---------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Terminations From: "John L. Adams" <
jadams@scioto.net <mailto:jadams@scioto.net>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:39:48 -0500 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=3D_NextPart_000_003A_01BF62AC.90498EE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi List, I'm glad to see others who use the telephone type of punch-down blocks. = =3D I've used them for years and think they are the next best thing to =3D sliced bread. A word of caution before buying a block. The configuration = =3D is such that some are split, meaning that the connectors across are not = =3D all connected. Some are, some not. That's an advantage sometime for you = =3D can get twice or three times the number of terminations on a 6 across =3D block for instance. Not good though if used for the typical spreader =3D where the pipe connects to one clip, then whatever operates that pipe, =3D i.e., the different relays, connect to the other clips in that row. For = =3D instance on my smallish organ of two manuals, 9 ranks, I use the blocks = =3D at the end of the main chest and bring all pipes to the block and tie =3D all relays to the same block. Makes for tuning and trouble shooting =3D easier. With the M66 block only one wire can go to a clip, hence the =3D multiple clips for multiple connections. Go to www.siemon.com <http://www.siemon.com> for the =3D manufacturer but I buy mine from Graybar. A good tip - if you need 61 or = =3D 73 or 85 positions and only have 50 position blocks, go to your handy =3D dandy band saw and cut off what you need. Through the plastic only of =3D course. On the bottom boards of my Kilgen main chest I used a neat block = =3D that has a 25 pair connector as well as the punch down clips so if =3D necessary to remove the bottom board I only need to unplug the =3D electrical part. If you should accidentally acquire blocks that are =3D split, there are bridging clips available to rectify this. They are very = =3D cheap and can even be used as a kind of test plug. Hope this helps. =3D20 John Adams Circleville, OH------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] re: wiring color codes From: "Richard Schneider" <
arpncorn@davesworld.net <mailto:arpncorn@davesworld.net>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:48:37 -0600 Tim Bovard wrote: > Hello, List! > In addition to David's fine info, it should be noted that the Chart as > shown is also applicable for cable sizes *smaller* than 50-pair. > Our firm commonly uses cable in 2, 3, 12, 25, and 50 pr sizes -- in each > case just follow the code chart from #1 until you run out of wires! There are actually quite a large number of sizes available from the 1 pair up to 500 pair! The common sizes that we keep running spools of in stock for our work are in the following sizes: 3 Pair (for diatonically split offset basses) 6 Pair (for chromatic octaves) 12 Pair (for 2 octaves of whatever -sometimes good for stop action wiring) 16 Pair (great for Pedalboards!) 25 Pair (great for 49 note ranks, such as celestes) 32 Pair (great for 61 Note Primaries or chests) 50 Pair (great for "extended" ranks of 73, 85 or 97 notes, although in the smaller groupings, that results in a *LOT* of spares!) The larger sizes beyond this don't have quite as frequent of application as in former times, in that they were usually used to make up the main cables between consoles and the organ proper. Nowadays, much of this is done by either fiber-optic or other forms of multiplexing the signals, rather than huge "analog" cables! Faithfully, "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider--------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Wiring color code schemes in 32 Pair cables From: "Richard Schneider" <
arpncorn@davesworld.net <mailto:arpncorn@davesworld.net>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:40:40 -0600 Larry Chace wrote: > Another variety of "telephone" cable is a 64-conductor (32-pair) size = that > is available from Organ Supply. This consists of two 16-pair bundles, = the > first a "white" bundle and the second an "orange" bundle; within each > bundle the wires are "numbered" 1-32. The bundles are identified by = pairs > of colored plastic tracer strips that also follow the standard color > code. For a very large cable, those bundles are themselves bundled, = again > using the same colored tracer strips. You can go on "forever" with this > scheme. Hmm, interesting. You sure about the # count in each bundle? My experience has been with TELCO cables that if there were 64 wires, the first bundle consisted of 25 pair (50 wires) and had the Blue and White plastic lacing around them, with the remaining 14 in an Orange and White plastic lacing. I'm not disputing what you said, but it makes me wonder if they had that cable made up "special"? I use 32 Pair (64 wire) cable by the spool and mine all comes the way I describe, although I purchase mine from Clifford of Vermont, instead of OSI. > In a way, it is too bad they didn't use the resistor color code, but the > telephone industry seems to have a history all of its own! Obviously: they took kind of a dim view of resistors!! :o) Faithfully, "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider--------------------------------
Subject: telco wiring junctions From: "Brian Graham" <
bgraham@geaf.com <mailto:bgraham@geaf.com>> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 13:46:52 -0600 I've been surfing the net looking for telco wiring hardware suitable for organ use. It's been rather frustrating. There are a lot of sites, but they aren't very user friendly, and most of them seem very "data" oriented. Here is what I want: I have for "primary sets" (2 chests, both duplex). For each of these I want to wire each magnet individually to a junction block of some sort on the primary set with a modular plug to which I could connect a cord to from this junction to the console, so that the next time I move it will be less nightmarish. I presume I'll be using 50 pr. cable in order to find standard plugs, since the 32 pr. stuff isn't very standard. Q. Where could I find standard junctions/plugs for 50 pr. cable? Q. Is there a company that would send me a catalog with photographs of this stuff? Q. If I want to use modular plugs, could I buy plugs that I could "splice" to the ends of bulk cable, or will I have to order cable with integrals plugs. Thanks!------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] telco wiring junctions From: "Ron Natalie" <
ron@sensor.com <mailto:ron@sensor.com>> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 15:14:21 -0500 Brian Graham wrote: > > > I presume I'll be using 50 pr. cable in order > to find standard plugs, since the 32 pr. stuff > isn't very standard. The standard plug for a 50 pair cable is two 25 pair plugs (generally referred to as BLUE RIBBON, TELCO, OR CENTRONICS style. Don't know what the official name is). > > Q. Where could I find standard junctions/plugs > for 50 pr. cable? > > Q. Is there a company that would send me > a catalog with photographs of this stuff? PANDUIT has a good catalog in PDF on their site. Of course you'll have to go through a distributer to actually buy it. We've got one nearby (used to be real nearby but they closed that part down so I have to truck accross town). -Ron--------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] telco wiring junctions From: "H. J. Zivnak" <
bztruck@email.msn.com <mailto:bztruck@email.msn.com>> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 12:12:24 -0800 Hello Brian and List, You wrote: > > I presume I'll be using 50 pr. cable in order > to find standard plugs, since the 32 pr. stuff > isn't very standard. This is probably the most enconmical solution in my experience. > Q. Where could I find standard junctions/plugs > for 50 pr. cable? You should consider buying premade cables, cutting them into two pieces wiring one end to the chest , and the other end to the console. Then you = use one more cable of an appropriate length to connect the two. Newark Electronics sell premade cables mfg by AT&T, and you can also find them at Alltel Supply, and Graybar. I was able to purchase cables with a male end, and a female end 15' in length for $10.80 ea. in 20 quantity. This is less than the Cinch connectors alone from Newark. > Q. Is there a company that would send me > a catalog with photographs of this stuff? Any of the above > > Q. If I want to use modular plugs, could I buy > plugs that I could "splice" to the ends of > bulk cable, or will I have to order cable with > integrals plugs. You can buy cables with a plug on one end, but angin, the cable with two plugs is less expensive. Hope this helps. Regards, Joe------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Re: Wiring for EM chests From: "Bart Kleineweber" <prinzipal8@hotmail.com <mailto:prinzipal8@hotmail.com>> Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 10:32:35 -0600 <html><div style=3D'background-color:'><DIV> <P>Dear Roy and List;</P> <P>I purchased 12-contact color coded cable from Home Depot, and 32 and 64 = contact cable from Organ Supply. For the 73 note chest I would use = the 64 contact cable and finish up with the 12 contact cable. For = the 97 note chest you could use the 64 contact cable and three 12 contact = cables. It's always helpful to have a few unused wires in the cable, = if there is a short in one at a point in the future, you can use the = previously unused wire to hook the note back up.</P> <P>I have rewired all my chests with new wire and never had to open or = take apart the chest to do so. You would simple remove the old cable = from the board that has the magnet caps and contacts and replace with the = new cable. This can always be done from the outside of the = chest.<BR><BR>Yes it's a good idea to follow the color code. When I = wired my first chest, I didn't know what the order was supposed to be, so = I used my own system and wrote down what I did. As long as you know = what it is everything should work out. Following the color code is = only useful if you plan on selling the chest as is someday, that way the = next person could wire the chest to their relay properly. But even = if you didn't follow the code, but wrote down what you did, you could = still sell the chest, just give them the written paper when you do = so. Otherwise, they would have to do what I had to do with all my = chests -- rewire the chest again.</P><BR><BR><BR>Bart Kleineweber
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