Subject: Re-doing Pouchboards From: "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net <mailto:dutchorgan@svs.net>> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:13:04 -0500 Something I'll pass on to fellow orga-nuts. Those of you lucky enough to re-do pouch boards, using egg-whites on the new pouches then talcum powder afterwards will lengthen the life of the leather. Dip your finger in a cup of whites and rub it in the leather good- this seals the pores. After they dry, sprinkle talc liberally on the pouches = and rub that in. Trim your nails first. The talc has oils in it to soften the leather back up. I've done this many times on organs and player piano stacks with very satisfactory results. Also applying talc to cork and leather gaskets will keep the material soft and supple. Rick dutchorgan+AEA-svs.net <http://www.svs.net/Dutch>

Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Re-doing Pouchboards From: <Pipewheezr@aol.com <mailto:Pipewheezr@aol.com>> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:17:07 EST Another way to seal the pouches is to thin contact cement 50% with contact = cement thinner.Then use a reed organ vac. pump to pull the glue into the pouch, then the powder.It's no yolk! Dennis

Subject: Pouch leather From: "Robert W. Taylor" <rtaylor@sockets.net <mailto:rtaylor@sockets.net>> Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 08:38:01 -0500 Hi gang, I am faced with the decission of selecting leather for pouches. The majority of the pouches are over a well 1 3/4 inches in diameter and go up to 3 1/2 inches. For years I have used "tan pouch leather" in my player piano business. Now, I hear that "CPL" thin pouch leather is better. It that true? I have experimented with both materials and find the "CPL" is harder to install because it is so flexible. ( The pouch is easily pushed out of round during the gluing process. It requires a more delicate touch.) Can someone offer words of wisdom? Which leather should I use and why? Bob Taylor (with only 2,500 more pouches to glue

Subject: Pouch leather From: "Richard Schneider" <arpschneider@starband.net <mailto:arpschneider@starband.net>> Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 13:27:24 -0500 "Robert W. Taylor" wrote: > Now, I hear that "CPL" thin pouch leather is better. It > that true? Yes. > I have experimented with both materials and find the "CPL" is harder to > install because it is so flexible. ( The pouch is easily pushed out of > round during the gluing process. It requires a more delicate touch.) You can obviate that somewhat by getting slightly thicker leather to compensate. > Can someone offer words of wisdom? Which leather should I use and why? I'd go with the CPL because of the life-expectency of it versus the old Tan Pneumatic. Depends too on where you get it. For years, there was a company in Grand Rapids, MI called Kiefer Tanning Company that sold absolutely the BEST Tan Pneumatic leather in existence. However, they themselves are no longer in existence. So the best choice these days seems to be the leather that Columbia Leathers in Pennsylvania sells. But as I've warned this list repeatedly: do NOT use the Fish Glue touted as a viable substitute by everyone. I've had wholesale failures and have consequently gone back to the "tried and true" Hot Hide Glue. Doesn't take long to get going and just proved to myself once more how good it really is. An inexperienced worker had installed a couple of pouches off-center and they had to be replaced. Talk about a JOB to get those pouches off and prepare a second time to leather them! The leather will fail LONG before the hot hide glue ever will. By stark contrast, I've been able to HAND peel pouches off that were attached with Fish Glue. Not a very good testamentary for future reliability, IMO. >2,500 more pouches to glue If you build yourself a jig to do this work, it should go very quickly! Good luck! Faithfully,

Subject: Pouch leather and DVA magnets From: "Jon Fick" <jon@VermontFicks.org <mailto:jon@VermontFicks.org>> Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:07:14 -0400 Speaking of pouch releathering, I'd be interested to know how releathering is done for Reisner DVA (direct valve action) magnets. I would imagine = some sort of jig is set up to 1) hold the magnet securely, and 2) hold the new pouch leather and valve leather on center and against the spring while the glue dries. A second (and more generic question to pouch leathering) is: how much "slack" do you allow in the pouch leather when you install it? Obviously you don't make it absolutely tight, and you do allow some overtravel such that there will be residual spring tension against the bottom of the toe board. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D The reason for my questions is this. I have a Spitz Principle 4' & 2' = chest in the church organ that has older Reisner DVA magnets. Upon de-winding = (if that's a word) certain pipes groan and wheeze. Thinking that the old armatures might be too heavy with gravity holding them open, I replaced = all the armatures but it made little difference. It turns out that the pouch springs are quite weak. I measured the residual "up presssure" of each spring with no wind on the chest. The magnets with the weakest springs exhibited a resisting force of 0-2 grams before the valve would begin to open. These were the very pipes that would groan as wind was dying. = Silent pipes exhibited something like 4-10 grams of "up pressure." As a comparison, I measured the residual pressures of the DVA's in a chest made by OSI in the 70's. Those DVA's exhibited 10-20 grams or = so...significantly more! And OSI measurements show 25-30 grams. So, I need to replace 72 springs and pouch leathers. Jon Fick