Subject: Key covering removal

Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 21:59:12 EST

I am getting ready to modify an old Reuter great manual so I can use it in = the chamber for tuning etc. The idea is there will be a terminal board in the Gt and one in the Sw for = the chests, and from those I can wire in some multi pin sockets so the one = keyboard will have it's cable and plugs so I can plug it in the board in = the Gt or the Sw as needed and when not in use, its unplugged and stored away. It has been stored in my basement with the old Swell manual, it's heated = to about 60 and a dehumidifier is there too. It doesnt need to look great but I noticed the ivory on a few keys had warped/buckled up where the two pieces of ivory meet, never saw this = before! I canabalized the swell manual to use some of the better sharp keys to replace some really worn/ scratched sharps on the Gt manual I'm using. And = I used two natural keys to replace two that had ivories that were broken. Nice that both manuals appear identical and the keys from one fits the = other perfectly. I also noticed the color of the naturals is identical to my Moller and I = have one key slip on the Moller Gt that has a chip on it's edge, I'd like to replace it since all the ivories on the Moller console are otherwise in excellent condition. The keys however are not interchangeable, Moller's spring placement and = other differences abound. The slips are the same size and length as well as = radius in the front corners. Any ideas how to get the ivory off the Reuter key intact? As well as the = old piece off the moller key without conversely; damaging the key? The Reuter is ivory not plastic, I took a broken piece and held it to a = flame and it didn't burn or melt. As an experiment I tried removing a slip from one of the other keys, = neither heat nor soaking in water seemed to have any effect. Neither method could = be used on the Moller key I want to save of course. But under the slip or two that broke off, there is a thin sheet of white slightly textured sort of mastic type material? I thought these slips were just glued to the wood, or is the mastic type stuff whatever it is just to ensure there's no "show through" of wood = color? I suppose the moller slip can be chipped off and the wood sanded to remove = the mastic stuff, and maybe the Reuter key I can make a cut just under the = ivory on the table saw and sand what's left of the remaining wood off the back of the ivory but there must be a better way. Randall

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Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Key covering removal

Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 09:41:06 -0600

When I recovered all the ivories on my three Kimball mauals I steamed them off with an siron and a damp cloth. once slightlt heated and steamed the ovories could be pried off with a slightly sharpened thin blade putty = knife. John Durgan

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Subject: Polishing ivory

Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:32:32 -0600

This morning I read that someone wanted input about making ivory look good--but I failed to note which list (I receive three lists) contained that inquiry---I think it was here. To make the keyboard look great, take each key and sand it on a flat surface of plate glass covered with 400 grit wet or dry paper. A tiny amount of water and bleach, 50-50, can be used to keep the sandpaper wet. Change the sand paper often and never allow the ivory to build up on the paper, it will leave grooves in the keys. Do not remove much ivory by sanding. Next, use a buffing wheel that is absolutely clean and dressed with tripoli. Make sure the overhang of the key points in the direction of = wheel rotation. Be mindful that ivory is both soft and brittle. It can be easily damaged from aggressive sanding and buffing. Before placing the keys back on the frame, clean the bare wood sides with scotch brite or similar abrasive. The keyboard will be beautiful when you finish. A slightly damp dust cloth can be used to maintain the ivory. If I have responded to the wrong list, please forgive my memory lapse. Bob Taylor

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Subject: Pedal Contacts

Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 14:55:04 EST

Although the project for which I needed to add pedal contacts ended before = I actually assembled them I was going to use a home made optical switch. The = IR detectors (receivers) and the IR diodes (transmitters) each costs 19 = cents. The detector will drive the input of a 2803 driver chip high or low, = depends on whether you make or break the light beam and the 2803's will drive any magnet or could be scanned for MIDI. 2803's seem to be the most commonly used, inexpensive driver chip around, having 8 channels and costing about = 60 cents per chip or about 8 cents per channel. Therefore the "contacts" = would cost less than 50 cents each plus a little work. My mounting scheme was = super simple it all seemed to be workable but I just didn't need to do it after all. I would be glad to explain further privately and send a sketch. It = would be unusual but leaf contacts would of course be simpler. Just don't use something that turns out to be noisy like some micro switches. John Adams

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Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Re: organ relays

Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 22:55:49 -0800

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Subject: RE: [Residence Organs] Glue for keytops

Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 20:23:38 -0400